The engine runs good. I've run at idle about 8 gallons of fuel. It is running well and quiet. I just changed the oil after very few miles and several hours running. It was dark and not bad. New filter. Now I'm looking for one of the friction additives that really work.
I turn the engine over with no ignition until I see 20 lbs of oil pressure. Then ignition switch and it fires immediately. Choke works well runs smooth at 50 lbs of oil pressure that drops as engine warms to 190 F. Then it has 10lbs at 700 rpm, 20 LBS at 1200 rpm at 190F. no smoke! no missing ( compression is 95 to 120 all 8 fire and it is smooth) no shocks anywhere, no blue fire in the dark. I'm using 10w40w Napa oil.
I'm a little concerned on oil pressure. I would hate to damage the engine because of an "O" ring or pressure adjustment on the oil pump. So, I'll be checking that out.
I must pull the steering box again :(.
Painting the frame satin black Rustoleum over cleaned and prepped and primered frame.
ron vrooman wrote:
The engine runs good. I've run at idle about 8 gallons of fuel. It is running well and quiet. I just changed the oil after very few miles and several hours running. It was dark and not bad. New filter. Now I'm looking for one of the friction additives that really work.
I turn the engine over with no ignition until I see 20 lbs of oil pressure. Then ignition switch and it fires immediately. Choke works well runs smooth at 50 lbs of oil pressure that drops as engine warms to 190 F. Then it has 10lbs at 700 rpm, 20 LBS at 1200 rpm at 190F. no smoke! no missing ( compression is 95 to 120 all 8 fire and it is smooth) no shocks anywhere, no blue fire in the dark. I'm using 10w40w Napa oil.
I'm a little concerned on oil pressure. I would hate to damage the engine because of an "O" ring or pressure adjustment on the oil pump. So, I'll be checking that out.
I must pull the steering box again :(.
Painting the frame satin black Rustoleum over cleaned and prepped and primered frame.
The engine runs good. I've run at idle about 8 gal... (
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Adding Marvel Magic Mystery Oil works.... despite the name...
it did not fair well in the friction tests I looked at.
peter11937 wrote:
Adding Marvel Magic Mystery Oil works.... despite the name...
ron vrooman wrote:
The engine runs good. I've run at idle about 8 gallons of fuel. It is running well and quiet. I just changed the oil after very few miles and several hours running. It was dark and not bad. New filter. Now I'm looking for one of the friction additives that really work.
I turn the engine over with no ignition until I see 20 lbs of oil pressure. Then ignition switch and it fires immediately. Choke works well runs smooth at 50 lbs of oil pressure that drops as engine warms to 190 F. Then it has 10lbs at 700 rpm, 20 LBS at 1200 rpm at 190F. no smoke! no missing ( compression is 95 to 120 all 8 fire and it is smooth) no shocks anywhere, no blue fire in the dark. I'm using 10w40w Napa oil.
I'm a little concerned on oil pressure. I would hate to damage the engine because of an "O" ring or pressure adjustment on the oil pump. So, I'll be checking that out.
I must pull the steering box again :(.
Painting the frame satin black Rustoleum over cleaned and prepped and primered frame.
The engine runs good. I've run at idle about 8 gal... (
show quote)
My truck has the 400 small block. Is the block different from the Windsor?
ron vrooman wrote:
it did not fair well in the friction tests I looked at.
Chainsaw oil...that probably wouldn't help.
ron vrooman wrote:
it did not fair well in the friction tests I looked at.
I tested it in my Jaguar 3.8 sedan. Without it is topped out at 100 mph, added it to the oil, no other change, I got 110 mph. Mileage was about the same.... Used 1/2 pint in the oil.
BigMike wrote:
Chainsaw oil...that probably wouldn't help.
STP used to make some it worked great ๐๐ฟ in those old cars ๐ increased the viscosity about 15/20 %.I am pretty sure itโs still on the market.I donโt think I would use it if the car ๐ is left outside at night in the colder parts of the country,itโs ok if you have a garage.It will work outside if you have a newer strong battery and a good starter.I used to use one of the old engine dip stick type engine heaters when I was young and living in New England, just plug them in at night and itโs trouble free starting in the A.M.even at 25 below zero.I saw a special mix high mileage oil at Pep boys that may help with older vehicles.
BigMike wrote:
My truck has the 400 small block. Is the block different from the Windsor?
If memory serves the Windsor is a 451 big block with a Cleveland 4 barrel carb.could be wrong itโs been awhile since I have taken one of those motors apart.
the Windsor has different head ports and spark plug from Cleveland. focus on oil pressure.
BigMike wrote:
My truck has the 400 small block. Is the block different from the Windsor?
STP did poorly in the test.
Hemiman wrote:
STP used to make some it worked great ๐๐ฟ in those old cars ๐ increased the viscosity about 15/20 %.I am pretty sure itโs still on the market.I donโt think I would use it if the car ๐ is left outside at night in the colder parts of the country,itโs ok if you have a garage.It will work outside if you have a newer strong battery and a good starter.I used to use one of the old engine dip stick type engine heaters when I was young and living in New England, just plug them in at night and itโs trouble free starting in the A.M.even at 25 below zero.I saw a special mix high mileage oil at Pep boys that may help with older vehicles.
STP used to make some it worked great ๐๐ฟ in thos... (
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Rislone did good in the test.
BigMike wrote:
My Pa used Rislone.
Hemiman wrote:
If memory serves the Windsor is a 451 big block with a Cleveland 4 barrel carb.could be wrong itโs been awhile since I have taken one of those motors apart.
351 big block?
My Pa is the one that ordered this truck with the 400 and an RV cam.
Personally...it's a muscle car engine, I think. Emphasis on
car.Give me a 390 any day. Bulletproof and
versatile.My dream truck is a 67-72 F-100 shortbed
fleetside with a 300 6 and a C5 transmission.
I'll never find one...finding a shortbed fleetside is tough. I suspect a bunch were turned into truckbed trailers.
Q M.I. I used to buy it in NAPA stores, they order it now. They have it for transmission rear end and engines Auto and standard trans protectants. Or find it on the internet. I had a Chevy 6 cylinder I was using oil one cylinder. Used it from Kansas to Oklahoma and back never burn another quart of oil, none. I hope this helps you he sure didn't me. My friend had a 30 year old air compressor making noise in his shop we put some of this in and runs to this day and you can't even hear it that was in 1988. I've tried all additives this is the best and has been the best well worth the money. 20$ Qt. ,1 time. For the life of eng.
Tony
Thanks, That is excellent info I'll add it to the list. Because I plan on adding friction protection to the trans and differential also and the huge ram on the hydraulic lift./
Freedomcalls wrote:
Q M.I. I used to buy it in NAPA stores, they order it now. They have it for transmission rear end and engines Auto and standard trans protectants. Or find it on the internet. I had a Chevy 6 cylinder I was using oil one cylinder. Used it from Kansas to Oklahoma and back never burn another quart of oil, none. I hope this helps you he sure didn't me. My friend had a 30 year old air compressor making noise in his shop we put some of this in and runs to this day and you can't even hear it that was in 1988. I've tried all additives this is the best and has been the best well worth the money. 20$ Qt. ,1 time. For the life of eng.
Tony
Q M.I. I used to buy it in NAPA stores, they orde... (
show quote)
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